Through self-government, this Inuit region in Atlantic Canada could set a precedent for the rest of the country

The village of nain is the northernmost permanently settled community in Atlantic Canada but let’s go a little farther north. Not too far, just up around the air strip and the dump and into Nain Bay, the vast mouth of Labrador’s Fraser River. Here on the shore, you can find a weather-scarred monument to one of those moments in time—a blink among the centuries—that cleaved a whole civilization’s past from its future.

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